Monday 10 August 2020

Opus Anglicanum - repro how-to

Edited Post : Apologies!
The pictures blue-toothed in the reverse order, so I’ve rectified the situation.

Following on from
This post
Here is how I made the stitch.

Double the thread.


Bring  needle out at point A

Separate the threads, all the way to the needle’s eye


Take one or two threads, sew method, going backwards into the chain, like a back stitch.

Pull through, maintaining control all the way

Keep the threads apart using your fingers as a loom




Nearing the end...


Draw all the way through. Tension upwards, gently.

Then bring the threads down and tension downwards, according to stitch length uniformity.
Keep the threads from twisting at all times, especially at the start of a new stitch.
You can work up to a decent speed in this way.

Continue in this way until you reach 1cm
I was able to make 14 stitches.  I took one or two threads each time. If I’m working inner curves, I would halve the stitch length by tensioning upwards a little more, as I mentioned before.


I have used two layers of ground fabric.  This is the view of the back of the work

As you can see, there is nothing to see.  This corroborates my analysis from what I can see of the extant examples I have been studying,
that can be found here
in that only the first ground fabric layer of silk was stitched, as the linen underneath is not similarly pierced.

I hope to carefully stitch a reproduction face within the next 6 weeks.

* I have to cut myself some slack in my schedule as my DD has come to stay for 2 weeks.  She’s a lovely girl but tends to take over, if you know what I mean?  I will still post, but probably not every day.  I don’t know where to get tassel formers from, it looks like I shall have to use wooden eggs?  If I’m unable to post much needlework in the next couple of weeks, I’ll post drawings and history stuff.
I went to three museums that I haven’t discussed yet.  Plenty of goodies in store...


4 comments:

  1. Thank you very much for these step by step instructions Beth! I have been experimenting with the underside couching part of Opus Anglicanum. So far, it did not work for me. Yes, underside couching through one layer of linen isn't problematic, but as soon as you add the velvet and the tabby silk on top, it becomes very difficult. Not in the least because you need quite a bit of physical strength to pull the threads through all these layers of fabric. Your linen couching thread is not up to this abuse and breaks frequently. Now it might just be that our modern material has changed so much that it is too inferior to execute these embroideries, but what if it is actually the technique that's wrong? Something to ponder :).

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    1. I’ve amended this post because I had a problem with sequencing the images. Would welcome any comment you might have on the fuller explanation.

      Holy Smoke, Jessica Grimm herself put a comment on my blog, I am honoured! I will go into your points more closely eventually but for now, can I just say, the workshop in St Paul’s employed mainly men. There is only one woman mentioned as having signed her work.

      I haven’t looked too far into underside couching, I’m just studying the face and hands. I’ve seen some interesting Alms bags from 1100s that I’ll link to.

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  2. Beth, thank you for these instructions. I want to try a face so this will help.
    As to tassel formers, I've used wooden oval beads which I found on Etsy.
    Jennifer

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    1. Thank you Jennifer, I’m over to Etsy...

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